Vintage Update October 2002

Harvest Homestretch, October 2002

As we prepare to take in the last of the Cabernet at the end of October, all I can say is "awesome"! Hit me if I sound like I did in '01, but I am exhilarated to say we have scored two grand slams in a row. Things might not have gone so well on the quality side if we had not had our crop thinned out with late spring frosts, but the dry summer helped keep things in tip top shape. Come fall we beat two hurricanes and lucked out of the recently projected torrential rains. It's just too good.

Right now we are totally inundated and filled to the gills with young fermenting wines -- so we haven't had much time to take stock -- but it looks like we'll just about hit our target of 86,000 gallons for 2002. Here's what we have to date:

Barbera: We waited until last minute and took ours just before the heavy rains of Hurricane Isadora. Nice brown seeds, slight raisening, lively acidity and ripe flavors. One of our growers, Gonzolo Ortiz, picked immediately after the rain (and before the water was absorbed by the vines), and I think his is in as good shape as ours. Destined for the Due Rossi blend, much more than 2001!

Sangiovese: We brought this in three days after the rains and the flavors are delicate, full of strawberry fruit, slightly metallic and typical in the regional round/softness that occurs in the Atlantic Uplands. Sugars are a bit low but we hope to hit 12.5% alcohol.

Chardonnay: Picture perfect for everything, even though it took a spread of two weeks to hit our numbers. Ripe, sweet and flavorful. Got it all before any rain. Typical low yield in the Philip Roth Vineyard. We might have had more Miller Estate but a block was not up to par so it will go into the Barrel Select or regular Chardonnay.

Vignoles: Perfect acids and sugars. Low yields, thanks to the spring frosts. Should be one fine '02 Spring Wine and Reserve White. The Seyval also had typical yields and high quality sugar, acid, flavors. In the Vidal we noticed the beginnings of botrytis, so I expect we will taste honey-like notes in the brilliant fruitiness that is showing now.

Pinot Noir: Two back-to-back great vintages. We will argue for the next decade about which was better, '01 or '02. We had a hint more acid this year. About the same amount of raisening and rich flavors. The color seems to have been deeper last year, but it's still early. The pre-fermentation cold soak was longer this year. We are into MLs in new French oak barrels now. FYI this year we decided not to use the Pommard clone in the select Miller Estate bottling. It did not seem to have the richness of flavor we want for ME, but it had a lively fresh acidity that will add a fine underpinning to the Barrel Select Pinot.

Pinot Grigio: More of '01. Perfect, though less grapes due to the spring frosts. Rich, soft, smooth, with a bit less of that varietal bitterness showing in the '01.

Merlot: We took the Waltz Vineyard Merlot (from Lancaster County) in prime condition. I can't believe what that man does! A week early but vines so healthy and looking like they are there for the long haul. Deep purple and jammy. Seeds mostly dark brown with some slightly tannic light brown. The flavors are juicy, chocolatey and delicious, without that cool-climate or over-cropped herbal note.

Niagara: Got it all before any rains in the Erie region. Light, fresh and fruity. The color of the Steuben was a bit irregular, but should be no problem for the typical Blush color, and the fruit flavors are right in line.

Chambourcin and Cabernet Sauvignon: The big boys are just beginning to roll in now (looking stupendous), so I'll catch you up on these, and the Riesling, in my next report!

THE STATE OF MILLER ESTATE

The most frequently asked question this year was "How did the drought affect the vineyards?" And I'm happy to respond, once again, that despite the summer's severe drought in our region, the vineyards came through magnificently. I'm especially proud of our own Miller Estate Vineyard which is in great shape thanks to Vineyard Manager Brett Mihalcik (at left in photo). I could tell you all about what we're doing up there, but I'd rather let you hear it from Mark Chien, Penn State's extension Wine Grape Agent, in this 9//9/02 memo to the state's grape growers (referring to a recent visit by ace Australian vineyard guru Dr. Richard Smart):

"I recently had a chance to visit Chaddsford's vineyard which is a fine example of a very well balanced VSP canopy. I believe even Dr. Smart would say this is an ideal case....with careful and thoughtful management, the vines are under control and producing excellent grapes. I wish everyone could SEE this vineyard. You'll read in my newsletter that folks in California are spending upwards of $15K to achieve perfect vineyard status. (Chaddsford Vineyard Manager) Brett isn't spending that kind of dough, but his viticulture is in the same league. The winery should be ecstatic and will have the wines to prove the value of his efforts. Brett is fastidious about his canopy and vineyard management. He is a good example for everyone to follow. That is, if the goal is to make great wine."

Thanks Marc. Thanks Brett and Curtis and the whole vineyard crew. Now, a few notes on the 2000 wines we are currently selling and the '01s beginning to hit the shelves.
 

SOMETHING BIG IN THE CELLAR

If you haven't tasted 2000 yet, I have to tell you, there is something big in the cellar. Yes, we have enjoyed an incredible run of great weather, but it's more than that. I have been pressing changes in the vineyards and cellar and it's all coming together in the '00s.

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon - It's hard to talk about anything but Cabernet in a vintage like '00. By the way, when I say Cabernet, you can assume I've added at least 20% Merlot and Cabernet Franc for complexity. With this vintage it's good-bye to the lean earthy style I've pursued the past 15 years and hello to New World style ripe forward fruit and smooth grainy tannins. No fining, light filtration, clearly a Cabernet but it has so much more I have been going nuts for the past two years waiting for its release and your comments. This is a keeper! Drinkable now, but in a year or two it will blast your buds even better.

2000 Merlot - You will notice that this wine is about 75% Long Island fruit, cranked up by the addition of some new vineyards in this region that will be coming on soon. The wine is just opening now. Beautifully ripened grapes, and a wise decision to add complexity by blending in about 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, have made for a nicely structured jammy thing with hints of fresh tobacco leaves and a long clean dry finish.

2000 Chambourcin - that would include the Seven Valleys Vineyard bottling, the first shot at a Miller Estate reserve lot, and the Proprietors Reserve Red. Just about every grape was working overtime when we picked it. Big full black fruit flavors that benefited from late picking. Typical smoke and Zin-like spice. All finished with American oak, (exclusively small PA oak medium toast barrels for the two vineyard lots). Um, umh.

2000 Chardonnay - each one of our four different bottlings is everything I had hoped the vintage would be. For the first time we committed the whole vintage to the "dirty winemaking" style that has contributed to the incredibly complex and long-lived Phillip Roth Chardonnay. All four lots went thru malo-lactic, were left on their lees, finished with French oak and allowed to ripen au natural. All have a lushness that marries ripe fruit and sweet oak vanilla. Probably the best way I can describe the difference between the regular bottling, the Barrel Select, the Miller Estate and the Roth is that the more it costs the more intensity it has in the mouth
and finish.
 

AND MOVING ON TO 2001....

There's lots more I could say about the '00s, but you'll just have to come see for yourself. If you do, you'll have a chance to get acquainted with 2001 as well, since the light whites and sweeter '01s have already been released. You can now try the '01 Proprietors White and Red, the delightful '01 Pinot Grigio, and a beaut of an '01 Blush. Coming soon is '01 Chardonnay, and Barrel Select Chardonnay. You'll have a bit of a wait for the '01 reds except the '01 Cabernet/Chambourcin that may appear in November or December, and the tiny lot of '01 Due Rossi (Sangiovese/Barbera) we plan to release at the annual Frequent Buyers' bash at the end of November. And, for a real treat, see little eric's notes below on the '01 Pinot Noir!

Now it's back to stomping grapes for me.

Eric Miller, Winemaker