Vintage Update August 2005

August Vineyard Report
August 15, 2005
Eric Miller, Winemaker

Shhhhh...I don't want to talk too loud or someone might hear me...but the 2005 vintage is looking really good about now. After the past two vintages that were challenging in so many ways, WE DESERVE THIS. Not that it's all milk and honey.

Spring began with the disappointment of seeing dead wood in the vineyards (I expect this was due to poor nutrition resulting from the past two vintages and the precipitous drop in temperatures last February when we went from about 60° to freezing in less than 12 hours) Vineyard Manager Brett made a point of how costly the winter pruning operation was at the Miller Estate by making a pile of discarded trunks and cordons about the size of a SEPTA bus. Woulda' been compounded if we had over-cropped but I gotta praise the discipline Brett showed in not over-burdening last year's already stressed vines. As the season progressed we noticed that for a 4th year in a row the berry-set was light..but at least there were lots of clusters to make up for it in most varieties.

Weatherwise, it's been a season of spotty draught and near hurricanes depending on the site. On our site we went from a warm dry early spring to summer's vigorous vines fueled by brilliant hot sun and sufficient moisture in the soil. Only last week all the work we did to tuck and organize the canopy was blown out by a local storm. In Lancaster they are having almost draught conditions with slightly less vigor and tame vines.

Under these conditions it has taken real dedication and $$$ to keep up with the spraying in the vineyards this year. We seem to have dew wetting the leaves every morning and I have never before seen such a massive population of Japanese Beetles. Had a bum ankle for a few weeks so I have not visited every vineyard in the past month but reports are that everyone is keeping clean and I'll be surveying things over the next couple of weeks.

We noticed today that the Pinot Noir just entered "veraisen" - when the grapes begin to color -- almost two weeks earlier than last year. This began in Merlot two weeks ago and has not yet started in the Cabernet.

Put it together and we have the potential for a slightly early season and luxurious long hang time for the late season varieties like Sangiovese and Barbera. We are looking at a first rate vintage with all the permutations that give it its own signature and I am getting excited. Keep us in your prayers!

Cellar Report on the 2004/2003 Vintage Wines

Early '04 Stuff: Since it's just about gone, I won't make a big deal about the '04 Spring Wine except to say it was the best vintage in 24 years. The '04 Blush continues to amaze me with it "fruit cocktail" of forward fruit, clean acidity and just enough sweetness to balance zesty Mexican and Thai foods. And what can I say about the '04 Pinot Grigio...except that we truly hope to have more of it for you in '05, with a combined PA/NY appellation.

Naked Chardonnay: The next most exciting thing about the ’04 vintage has been taking a new look at old friends. Faced with declining Chardonnay sales, I am departing from the big-oak, earthy, malo-lactic norm of the past 10-15 years in favor of a small lot (in a completely different style) that will be lean, green, clean, unoaked, and bottled fresh like a crisp Chablis. This Naked Chardonnay, not unlike a Pinot Grigio but with more fruit, should be ready at the end of summer. Keep your eyes out for the release, while I keep my nose and tongue on the still developing Chards of Barrel Select and Miller Estate fame.

The '04 Reds: Perhaps the biggest news is in the reds. We have decided to delay bottling the single vineyard '04 Chambourcins and age both in new Pennsylvania barrels. The Miller Estate Pinot Noir and Merlot are being aged in small French and Hungarian oak and will likely be held until winter as we are finding that enhances fruit and structure; but we taste them frequently enough to change that plan if something indicates we should bottle earlier. At the top of my "excitement" scale are the '04 Due Rossi (small Sangiovese/Barbera lot) and Rubino (our first Super Tuscan Cabernet/Sangiovese blend) that are showing this waspy winemaker's dark and exotic Italian roots. The Due Rossi was mostly sold out at July's Futures Tasting, but look for the Rubino around Christmas.

R&D Projects: Part of the fun in the cellar is trial work to find our what best brings out the natural fruit and regional character in our wines. Currently we are working on some R&D projects aimed at better understanding nutrition, needs of the new "designer" yeasts, and continued work with the Malo-lacteric bacteria. The Miller Estate Chardonnay '04 is a product of an incredible team effort you won't want to miss.

'03s and Older: If you check our shelves, you will find the '03 Merlot is out. I'd say it's a bit lighter than the '02 but has plenty of characteristic jammy fruit compote, a bit of sweet French vanilla from its oak aging, none of that nasty herbal stuff, and smooth drinkable tannins. Sadly we are already running out of the '03 Pinot Noir but we still have the '02 Barrel select Pinot, just now coming into its prime. (FYI, tasted the '01 about a month ago and it was very similar, in case you have some in your cellar and are wondering whether or not you should drink it); smells of wilted flowers, hints of cooked cherry and brown sugar, medium body and just enough acidity to keep things from getting boring.

You can find tasting notes on quite a few other wines on our web site, and if you have interest in any others, old or new, you can always email me for an opinion...tho' I may be a bit slow as harvest cranks up.

Oh gawd, not the "H" word already!

Eric Miller, Winemaker