Vintage Update

Vineyard Report
February 2007
Eric Miller, Winemaker

You know from what I wrote last fall that I had some serious concerns about the 2006 vintage. We were struggling when the late season rains came and we took it on the chin with the early varieties. It was not a happy time meeting and greeting Chardonnay that did not have sugars like '05. I sold off a lot of juice/grapes and we made a few early cuts that precluded some of our high-end single vineyard bottlings.

We held back a few barrels of Miller Estate Chardonnay, but I didn't hold much hope for it. We waited to pick Pinot Noir until it was raisining, but I still did not taste what I wanted....so all the Miller Estate Pinot Noir was declassified down to a "Barrel Select" lot. I put the word out to our growers that we had taken all the questionable material we could and would hold off any further picking in hopes of a change in the weather.

Almost a fortnight later - after finally getting some sun and warmth -- we began to take in Syrah and Merlot. We let the Chambourcin, Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon hang even more. We watched the Sangiovese and Barbera (which had been hit earlier by hail) go to deep blue color and pass into jammy fruit. We held off picking past the first frost that took most of the leaves, and still we let it hang a few more days. Finally, we crushed and went for max extraction.

Last week cellarmaster Jim completed the final blends and he, enologist Jen and I settled in to taste what happened. We met stable dense color and no one said much. Smells began to fill our crummy bombed-out production office. Flavors were tight. Tannins were smooth and grainy. And slowly the three of us began to smile. And get chatty.

It began with the lot of Miller Estate Chardonnay that we had not blended off into the Naked Chardonnay. Wow, the fruit came up to grap us. There were sweet smells coming out of the Pinot Noir. Tasting the Seven Valleys Chambourcin, the Jansen Estate Chambourcin, Merlot, Rubino and Cab blends was like Christmas all over again.

Suffice it to say, I was more than surprised. And very very happy. I have no regrets for making everybody so worried, because my fears that 2006 would be a less than a stellar vintage made everybody work a little harder. Or maybe the gods were just looking out for us. Hail 2006.

Hail 2006 for the whites that show cool bright fruit. Dig the three barrels of Miler Estate Chardonnay we did not blend off into Naked Chardonnay. Hail the Pinot Noir and Syrah for their delicate ripe red peppery fruit. Hail but hold back a few years for the mouth-filling tannins of my 25th Anniversary Merican blend. The Cab and Merlot may come on a bit sooner as their fine grainy tannins subside. Hail 2006 because it has turned out to be right up there with other good-to-great vintages I've been so grateful for.

Cellar Report: The 2005 Vintage

Sometime during December 2005 I retracted my statement that the '01 and '02 vintages might have been rated 10 out of 10. Considering what happened in 2005 I down-graded those previous vintages to 9 and gave '05 a 10. I'm allowed to do that! Now, as I taste the brilliant '05 wines I believe that indeed we had near-perfect conditions....but am reminded that near perfect is only as good as the final work we do in the cellar.

After about 5 years of experimentation (with techniques like cold soaking, a la the brilliant Ken Wright), Cellarmaster Jim Osborn and I have agreed that extended skin/seed contact produces greater mouth-feel and potential extended aging. Thus, Chaddsford's 2005 reds -- Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Merican -- are packed with rich deep color, sweet extracts and mouth-filling tannins. Yes, we have gone all the way in allowing them, even blending elements like Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petite Verdot, to ferment and mascerate well-past 0° brix. Completely dry with maximum tannin uptake. This in a super-ripe year when grapes achieved full potential. What else can I say?

We are now buying in an incredible amount of new barrels for extended aging before bottling. Further, we are using a high percentage of heavy toasted oak. So hang onto your seat belts ladies and gentlemen, this is a RED YEAR at Chaddsford Winery...particularly if you're a Chambourcin lover. This year we will be offering three vineyard designated lots: the big Seven Valleys Chambourcin, the delicate Miller Estate Chambourcin, and a new first-time vineyard bottling (filled with dark fruit and spice) from the Jansen Estate. You have tasted Jansen in our best years' Proprietors Reserve Red, but I will never blend it off in a good year again.

As for whites, don't let go. After several years of yeast trials we have heavily invested in some new designer strains that have brought out maximum fruit in Spring Wine, Pinot Grigio and both the Miller Estate and Roth Chardonnays. Yes, Roth Chardonnay! In this, our first Roth since 2001, we have embarked on a partial malo-lactic fermentation, retained a natural acidity, brilliant fruit and creamy apple-pie flavor swollen into sweet vanilla. I am so excited.

2004s Available Now

While we're waiting for the '05s, I offer you the delayed, barrel-ripened and vineyard designated reds from '04. Keep your tongue out for the Merlot. We seem to have lost some color but the jammy fruit and intensity just goes on. After a long period of excessive mint and dill both the Miller Estate and Seven Valleys Chambourcin have opened up to deep ripe dark fruit. And, down the road, you will find a Meritage worth waiting for. Yes, I am happy to say that, looking ahead to both the '04s and '05s, I have some kick-ass wines you are going to love.

Eric Miller, Winemaker