Vintage Update July 2006

July Vineyard Report
July 24, 2006
Eric Miller, Winemaker

As of today our Miller Estate Vineyard appears to be in control. I was most worried about it because we got smacked by some serious hail and saw 10 to 15% of the crop splattered, bruised and broken early last week. Up until that time we had an average crop going, but now we're facing an anxious few weeks as we wait to see how this plays out....whether the damaged fruit will promote rot and pests, or will raisin and fall off.

My main concern now is humidity in the form of rain, fog, dew and wet (over vigorous) soils. Heat has been high too but the vines have a rich healthy green to their over-abundant leaves. On the top of my worry list are Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc, which had a poor flower set and have begun the season with a light crop. Pinot Noir has a rather tight set with short light clusters so we are praying for the humidity to lighten up. At this point all varieties have been green-pruned, leaf thinned and are hanging clean and open to the sun and wind. Pray for dry weather!

Word from our other associated growers is good. Fortunately for my sanity, I did not know about hail damage to the Waltz Vineyard Merlot (from the same storm that hit the Miller Estate) - but fortunately it appears to be on the mend. While black rot, downy and powdery mildew (just their names give me the creeps) have reared their ugly heads, they are in control with standard commercial sprays. Fortunately Japanese Beetles are not hard to deal with. The massive weed attacks have been beaten down for now but I think everyone wants a break to enjoy the summer.

It's hard to believe, but we are closing down on the 2006 harvest, and have already begun our pre-harvest meetings in the cellar!

Cellar Report: The 2005 Vintage

Sometime during December 2005 I retracted my statement that the '01 and '02 vintages might have been rated 10 out of 10. Considering what happened in 2005 I down-graded those previous vintages to 9 and gave '05 a 10. I'm allowed to do that! Now, as I taste the brilliant '05 wines I believe that indeed we had near-perfect conditions....but am reminded that near perfect is only as good as the final work we do in the cellar.

After about 5 years of experimentation (with techniques like cold soaking, a la the brilliant Ken Wright), Cellarmaster Jim Osborn and I have agreed that extended skin/seed contact produces greater mouth-feel and potential extended aging. Thus, Chaddsford's 2005 reds -- Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Merican -- are packed with rich deep color, sweet extracts and mouth-filling tannins. Yes, we have gone all the way in allowing them, even blending elements like Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petite Verdot, to ferment and mascerate well-past 0° brix. Completely dry with maximum tannin uptake. This in a super-ripe year when grapes achieved full potential. What else can I say?

We are now buying in an incredible amount of new barrels for extended aging before bottling. Further, we are using a high percentage of heavy toasted oak. So hang onto your seat belts ladies and gentlemen, this is a RED YEAR at Chaddsford Winery...particularly if you're a Chambourcin lover. This year we will be offering three vineyard designated lots: the big Seven Valleys Chambourcin, the delicate Miller Estate Chambourcin, and a new first-time vineyard bottling (filled with dark fruit and spice) from the Jansen Estate. You have tasted Jansen in our best years' Proprietors Reserve Red, but I will never blend it off in a good year again.

As for whites, don't let go. After several years of yeast trials we have heavily invested in some new designer strains that have brought out maximum fruit in Spring Wine, Pinot Grigio and both the Miller Estate and Roth Chardonnays. Yes, Roth Chardonnay! In this, our first Roth since 2001, we have embarked on a partial malo-lactic fermentation, retained a natural acidity, brilliant fruit and creamy apple-pie flavor swollen into sweet vanilla. I am so excited.

2004s Available Now

While we're waiting for the '05s, I offer you the delayed, barrel-ripened and vineyard designated reds from '04. Keep your tongue out for the Merlot. We seem to have lost some color but the jammy fruit and intensity just goes on. After a long period of excessive mint and dill both the Miller Estate and Seven Valleys Chambourcin have opened up to deep ripe dark fruit. And, down the road, you will find a Meritage worth waiting for. Yes, I am happy to say that, looking ahead to both the '04s and '05s, I have some kick-ass wines you are going to love.

Eric Miller, Winemaker