Vintage Update March 2006

March Vineyard Report
March 15, 2006
Eric Miller, Winemaker

For you the winter is over. For me, the effects go on. I still do not really know the condition of the vines. We took some damage in December when we had all those warm days and then, boom, it dropped 50 degrees overnight. Buds were swelling and it is simply not clear if they retreated sufficiently to make it through the freeze. Miller Estate Vineyard Manager Brett Mihalcik decided to prune lightly, leaving a lot of potential buds. He will then personally inspect and do final cuts in late March on 1500 Chardonnay vines, 2400 Pinot Noir, 2300 Cab Sauv, 2600 Cab Franc, 3600 Chambourcin. I don’t envy that decision but I appreciate the dedication.

Overall the Atlantic Uplands has enjoyed a mild winter, allowing all of us in the region to prune at a rapid rate. I have recommended that our associated growers leave excessive potential buds and return late spring to make final cropping decisions when clusters begin to show. At that point, I'll be able to tell you more of the 2006 story, so stay tuned for further reports as the season progresses and I get out to do some surveying.

Cellar Report: The 2005 Vintage

Sometime during December 2005 I retracted my statement that the '01 and '02 vintages might have been rated 10 out of 10. Considering what happened in 2005 I down-graded those previous vintages to 9 and gave '05 a 10. I'm allowed to do that! Now, as I taste the brilliant '05 wines I believe that indeed we had near-perfect conditions....but am reminded that near perfect is only as good as the final work we do in the cellar.

After about 5 years of experimentation (with techniques like cold soaking, a la the brilliant Ken Wright), Cellarmaster Jim Osborn and I have agreed that extended skin/seed contact produces greater mouth-feel and potential extended aging. Thus, Chaddsford's 2005 reds -- Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Merican -- are packed with rich deep color, sweet extracts and mouth-filling tannins. Yes, we have gone all the way in allowing them, even blending elements like Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petite Verdot, to ferment and mascerate well-past 0° brix. Completely dry with maximum tannin uptake. This in a super-ripe year when grapes achieved full potential. What else can I say?

We are now buying in an incredible amount of new barrels for extended aging before bottling. Further, we are using a high percentage of heavy toasted oak. So hang onto your seat belts ladies and gentlemen, this is a RED YEAR at Chaddsford Winery.

Taste the '05s in July

And if you're a Chambourcin lover, 2005 is definitely YOUR year. Mark your calendar for the July 22 & 29 barreled wine futures offering at which we will show the big Seven Valleys Chambourcin, the delicate Miller Estate Chambourcin, and a new first-time vineyard bottling (filled with dark fruit and spice) from the Jansen Estate. You have tasted Jansen in our best years' Proprietors Reserve Red, but I will never blend it off in a good year again.

As for whites, don't let go. After several years of yeast trials we have heavily invested in some new designer strains that have brought out maximum fruit in Spring Wine, Pinot Grigio and both the Miller Estate and Roth Chardonnays. Yes, Roth Chardonnay! In this, our first Roth since 2001, we have embarked on a partial malo-lactic fermentation, retained a natural acidity, brilliant fruit and creamy apple-pie flavor swollen into sweet vanilla. I am so excited.

2004s Available Now

While we're waiting for the '05s, I offer you the delayed, barrel-ripened and vineyard designated reds from '04. Keep your tongue out for the Merlot. We seem to have lost some color but the jammy fruit and intensity just goes on. After a long period of excessive mint and dill both the Miller Estate and Seven Valleys Chambourcin have opened up to deep ripe dark fruit. And if you join us for the July futures tastings, you will find a Meritage worth waiting for.

Finally, thanks to all of you who have been willing to hang in there with some of our light '03 Reds. But looking ahead to the '04s and '05s, I can tell you that I have some kick-ass wines you are going to love.

Eric Miller, Winemaker