Vintage Update September 2006

Vineyard Report
September 26, 2006
Eric Miller, Winemaker

About this time everyone start's asking that simple question, "How's the '06 harvest going?" So I'll try to give you a simple answer. Except those of you who know anything about winegrowing know it's not that simple.

If we went by ratings the 2006 vintage might look like this:

• Spring: 9 out of 10, Cool, clear, dry, very dry, slight potassium stress.
• Early to mid-Summer: 7 out of 10, warm, incredibly wet, hot, dry, no stress, overly vigorous.
• Mid to late-summer: 6 out of 10, Warm with moderate nights, dry, then wet with rain, fog and heavy dews, complete vine focus on fruit, danger of botrytis.
• Early Fall (now): 9 out of 10, warm days, clear nights, minimal dew and precipitation, minimal botrytis in red varieties.

But....Parker and Wine Spectator aside, wine is not simply a matter of ratings but an amalgamation of decisions and actions....from pruning....to crop size and canopy management...to spray materials and timing of picking. And on that basis I would rate our Miller Estate and associated vineyards to date at 8 out of 10. This compared to seeing complete crop loss in some non-associated vineyards.

Remembering the old adage that "the season makes a vintage but the two weeks before harvest makes the wine," I have been far more anxious this year than I was in '05. (We call this a "winemaker's vintage") Every ensuing day is: taste the fruit, wait, taste, wait, PICK! PICK! Decisions and demands have not been easy on growers or our winemaking team. But today we reached a critical turning point. 12 days of mostly clear sunny days are behind us and cool clear nights and another 4 promising days in front of us.

O.K., enough general stuff -- here are some specifics.

2006 Vignoles came in with typical spice, high acid and bright fruit character. And I'm happy to say Pinot Grigio is crisp, fruity, acidic and sweet. On the other hand, I did not have the confidence to hold off picking Chardonnay to its fleshiest raisin-like ripeness, so we decided to press it lightly and discard excess juice in order to not press in green flavors. Consequently, you probably won't see a Miller Estate or Roth Chardonnay '06.

The Miller Estate Chambourcin and Seven Valleys are coming on with ripe seeds and we have the picking crew set to bring in Merlot this weekend. In our fermentors the first-pick Syrah has a fine spicy black pepper/raspberry fruit, deep color and substantial grainy tannins. Pinot has typical light color and most lots are showing a light cherry, brown sugar with substantial fine grainy tannins. All of these wines show a firm style and vintage signature of longevity, balanced acidity, and a compact fruitiness I expect will hold for several years. The decision is made: extended fermentation on the skins under somewhat reduced conditions.

And what inspired me to write these comments tonight was tasting the Merlot from our newest vineyard, Historic Hopewell Vineyard in Oxford, and from the Waltz Vineyard in Lancaster. These grapes have passed beyond simple pretty fruit and tobacco into the soft-berry stage of jammy cooked fruit and the kind of ripe, big-ass compote we have not seen since 2002.

Having said all that - whew! -- there is still a great deal ahead of us, like deciding when to pick the Miller Estate Chambourcin, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, and Sangiovese.

But now back to what I promised, a simple answer to "How's the '06 harvest going?" I think I can say that at this mid-way point 2006 is looking like a light fresh white "early Naked Drinker" and a red keeper. Vineyard manager Brett Mihalcikis holding off the birds, Enologist Jen Jones is applying her nose, Jim "I-shall-fear-no-tannin" Osborn, cellarmaster supreme, is unbending and I am beginning to see the light.

Stay in tune to see what October brings!

Cellar Report: The 2005 Vintage

Sometime during December 2005 I retracted my statement that the '01 and '02 vintages might have been rated 10 out of 10. Considering what happened in 2005 I down-graded those previous vintages to 9 and gave '05 a 10. I'm allowed to do that! Now, as I taste the brilliant '05 wines I believe that indeed we had near-perfect conditions....but am reminded that near perfect is only as good as the final work we do in the cellar.

After about 5 years of experimentation (with techniques like cold soaking, a la the brilliant Ken Wright), Cellarmaster Jim Osborn and I have agreed that extended skin/seed contact produces greater mouth-feel and potential extended aging. Thus, Chaddsford's 2005 reds -- Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Merican -- are packed with rich deep color, sweet extracts and mouth-filling tannins. Yes, we have gone all the way in allowing them, even blending elements like Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petite Verdot, to ferment and mascerate well-past 0° brix. Completely dry with maximum tannin uptake. This in a super-ripe year when grapes achieved full potential. What else can I say?

We are now buying in an incredible amount of new barrels for extended aging before bottling. Further, we are using a high percentage of heavy toasted oak. So hang onto your seat belts ladies and gentlemen, this is a RED YEAR at Chaddsford Winery...particularly if you're a Chambourcin lover. This year we will be offering three vineyard designated lots: the big Seven Valleys Chambourcin, the delicate Miller Estate Chambourcin, and a new first-time vineyard bottling (filled with dark fruit and spice) from the Jansen Estate. You have tasted Jansen in our best years' Proprietors Reserve Red, but I will never blend it off in a good year again.

As for whites, don't let go. After several years of yeast trials we have heavily invested in some new designer strains that have brought out maximum fruit in Spring Wine, Pinot Grigio and both the Miller Estate and Roth Chardonnays. Yes, Roth Chardonnay! In this, our first Roth since 2001, we have embarked on a partial malo-lactic fermentation, retained a natural acidity, brilliant fruit and creamy apple-pie flavor swollen into sweet vanilla. I am so excited.

2004s Available Now

While we're waiting for the '05s, I offer you the delayed, barrel-ripened and vineyard designated reds from '04. Keep your tongue out for the Merlot. We seem to have lost some color but the jammy fruit and intensity just goes on. After a long period of excessive mint and dill both the Miller Estate and Seven Valleys Chambourcin have opened up to deep ripe dark fruit. And, down the road, you will find a Meritage worth waiting for. Yes, I am happy to say that, looking ahead to both the '04s and '05s, I have some kick-ass wines you are going to love.

Eric Miller, Winemaker